Yorkshire Terrier Breed Information
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Advantages of a Toy Dog
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1. Big dog in a small package.
( Easy to carry around, walk on a leash and hold on your lap).
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2. Easily adaptable to all surroundings.
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3. Excellent personal companion as well as making a good family pet.
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4. Small enough to travel and vacation with you.
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5. They travel well and are accepted at most Hotels.
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6. Daily upkeep is minimal in regards to feeding, grooming, bedding and exercising.
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7. Toy dogs are easier for senior citizens and those individuals with
medical problems to handle in regards to the size and strength of a
larger dog.
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8. Potty training can be adapted for indoors or outdoors.
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9. Crate training is a must!
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10. Life span, if cared for properly, is longer than a larger dog.
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11. Very intelligent because of their closeness with their human family.
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12. Enjoy sitting on your lap as well as playing with their toys and being active.
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13. Older dogs make a good adjustment for those individuals who
do not have time for the constant care of a puppy but would like the
companionship of a dog.
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14. Most toy breeds can be placed in homes where people have
allergy problems.
(Always done on a trial basis).
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15. Toy dogs love the attention given in obedience classes . They tend
to want to please and they are fun and easy to work with.
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16. The toy dogs affection is insurmountable and do well as Therapy Dogs.
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Disadvantages of a Toy Dog
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1. May challenge other unknown dogs which may in turn
cause
their death. They think they are bigger than they actually
are and are quite protective of their owners.
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2. Their teeth need constant attention. They can lose them at an early age.
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3. Do not react well to being placed in a kennel situation for boarding .
If you travel often and are unable to take your dog with you then
this is not a good choice for you.
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4. Potty training takes a bit longer and requires a definite commitment on
your part.
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5. May not work out well with children 2 to 4 years of age due to the size
of the dog and the unsteadiness of the child.
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6. They are low enough to the ground and floor that one must be careful
of the type of products used to maintain lawns and clean floors.
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7. Behavior problems may be directly associated with their human families
behavior pattern.
(Noisy family/noisy dog, calm family/quiet dog, emotional
upset in family/behavior change in dog)
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8. They usually stay close by your side therefore one can easily fall on or
trip over their dog.
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9. If a toy dog becomes ill one must seek veterinary assistance promptly
as they tend to dehydrate very quickly. They are at
a higher risk when
anesthesia is given also because of their size. Isoflurane seems to be the
anesthesia of choice.
We recommend ONLY Isoflurane and we also recommend NO pre shot !Only gas and
no pre anesthetics- for the simple reason that Yorkies do not do well with Anesthesia
If you are interested in purchasing a tiny Yorkie,
sometimes called a Teacup,
Micro Mini, Teenie, or any other name that means “extra small”,
there are several
things you should consider. The Code of Ethics precludes the use of the
words “teacup”, “tiny specialists”, doll faced, or similar
terminology,
and for good reason.
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All breeders may occasionally have an unusually small Yorkie (hopefully
healthy),
though no responsible breeder breeds for this trait. Many breeders prefer
a
general weight range of 4-7 four pounds believing that size retains desired
Toy
qualities while maintaining optimum health. The Yorkie Standard states weight
"must not exceed seven pounds" and as a prospective pet owner
you should
realize that even at 7 pounds, the Yorkie is still a small dog. (Females
weighing
less than 5 pounds are considered by most breeders to be unsuitable for
breeding.)
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Special circumstances often come with extra tiny dogs. They are extremely
susceptible
to both hereditary and non-hereditary health problems, including birth defects
that
may go undetected for a long time. Other common problems may include, but
are not
limited to, diarrhea, vomiting, along with extra and expensive tests prior
to routine
teeth cleanings and surgeries. Small ones are more likely to have poor reactions
to
anesthesia and die from it. Tiny dogs are more easily injured by falls,
being stepped
on and being attacked by other dogs. These health problems nearly always
result in
large veterinary bills.
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Please take this into consideration and make purchasing a healthy pet your
top priority,
not size. The “novelty” is certainly not worth the pain, heartbreak,
or extra expense.
Remember, all Yorkies are comparatively small. The most important thing
is finding a
healthy puppy that will grow into a healthy adult, especially since you
looking at an
11 to 15 year commitment with your Yorkie.
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There is much information on our web site. Please take the time to study
it
before buying a puppy. We wish you the best of luck.
Yorkshire Terrier Breed Standard
Toy Group
Breed Standard
That of a long-haired toy terrier whose blue and tan coat is parted on the face and from the base of the skull to the end of the tail and hangs evenly and quite straight down each side of body. The body is neat, compact and well proportioned. The dog's high head carriage and confident manner should give the appearance of vigor and self-importance.
Small and rather flat on top, the skull not too prominent or round, the muzzle not too long, with the bite neither undershot nor overshot and teeth sound. Either scissors bite or level bite is acceptable. The nose is black. Eyes are medium in size and not too prominent; dark in color and sparkling with a sharp, intelligent expression. Eye rims are dark. Ears are small, V-shaped, carried erect and set not too far apart.
Well proportioned and very compact. The back is rather short, the back line level, with height at shoulder the same as at the rump.
Forelegs should be straight, elbows neither in nor out. Hind legs straight when viewed from behind, but stifles are moderately bent when viewed from the sides. Feet are round with black toenails. Dew claws, if any, are generally removed from the hind legs. Dew claws on the forelegs may be removed.
Docked to a medium length and carried slightly higher than the level of the back.
Quality, texture and quantity of coat are of prime importance. Hair is glossy, fine and silky in texture. Coat on the body is moderately long and perfectly straight (not wavy). It may be trimmed to floor length to give ease of movement and a neater appearance, if desired. The fall on the head is long, tied with one bow in center of head or parted in the middle and tied with two bows. Hair on muzzle is very long. Hair should be trimmed short on tips of ears and may be trimmed on feet to give them a neat appearance.
Puppies are born black and tan and are normally darker in body color, showing an intermingling of black hair in the tan until they are matured. Color of hair on body and richness of tan on head and legs are of prime importance in adult dogs, to which the following color requirements apply:
The blue extends over the body from back of neck to root of tail. Hair on tail is a darker blue, especially at end of tail.
A rich golden tan, deeper in color at sides of head, at ear roots and on the muzzle, with ears a deep rich tan. Tan color should not extend down on back of neck.
A bright, rich tan, not extending above the elbow on the forelegs nor above the stifle on the hind legs.
Must not exceed seven pounds.
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A " CHRISTMAS PUPPY "
Christmas, consider this alternative instead: Purchase a leash, a collar, a good book on raising a puppy, a gift certificate for a veterinary checkup, a gift certificate for puppy socialization classes from one of the local obedience instructors, a book or video tape on the topic of how to select the right dog for your family (there are several, including even a computer program that purports to help you do this), or a gift subscription to one of the dog-oriented magazines.
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An Important Note About Color in Yorkshire Terriers
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The most distinctive characteristic of an adult Yorkshire Terrier is its long blue and
tan silk coat. A puppy is born black and tan, but the only recognized colors for adults
when registering with CKC are blue and gold, blue and tan, black and gold, or
black and tan.
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The CKC Breed Standard do not recognize any other
color dogs than noted above. This includes all gold, born blue, liver (also known as
red or chocolate), and parti-colors. One of the reasons for avoiding breeding
"off-colored" Yorkies is because it could be a genetic defect that may affect the
dog's health. Some health problems can include, but aren't limited to, severe skin
problems, allergies, total hair loss and in some cases long-term illness and/or death.
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A responsible breeder will not intentionally breed for undesirable traits. On very
rare occasions, a breeder will have a puppy born with a color anomaly. That puppy
should undergo careful health screenings before being placed in a spay/neuter
(non-breeding) home. A breeder should certainly never promote these deviations
as being desirable or rare.
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There are many issues that potential Yorkie owners need to study before purchasing
their dog. We hope you will read the helpful information at this web site and make
an informed decision. It could very possibly save you aggravation,
disappointment and expense. We wish you the best of luck in your pursuit
of a happy, healthy Yorkshire Terrier.
Listed in this article are some axioms that I have created as a learning tool. These axioms are reflections of the temptations we face on a daily basis as dog breeders. If one were to make a similar list for any human endeavor, I doubt it would differ much from what I have listed. I think this list is one that we should all review from time to time, for it requires maturity and self-confidence to master-something we all should continue to hone throughout our lives. The ultimate payoff is the ability to succeed in and to enjoy our dog breeding careers.
I - ENJOY
YOUR DOGS
The primary reason anyone becomes involved with dog
breeding and showing is a fundamental love of dogs. We treasure the companionship,
the never failing loyalty, the delight they exude. We love to have them
on our beds. Their eagerness to face the new day, even when we wake them
up at dreadful hours, provides us a wonderment that brings back the exuberance
of childhood. They forgive us when we lose our temper, when we are impatient,
when we are far less than they are. They bring out the best of ourselves,
they nurture the "big" us. Unfortunately, dog breeding and exhibiting
can tempt our "little" selves. It can feed a fragile ego until
it becomes a raging ego. Often, this need to feel we are better than our
fellow man is expressed in our possessions. We need to have the biggest
winner, the producer of the most champions, the most champion puppies. We
buy, we co-own, we collect. Soon we have no time for dog pleasures, no time
to play or rub a grateful belly, no time to stroke a patient brow. Soon
we have no room for more dogs; we stack them and crate them and store them
as though they were baubles that have no meaning but to make us feel important.
We lose our ability to love. Dog showing and breeding is a great vocation.
It is creative and challenging and very rewarding. But we must never expect
our hobby to take the place of a psychologist's work. We must never expect
an unhealthy mental state to be cured by self-indulgence. Far too many people
take to showing and breeding for the wrong reasons. Their houses go to ruin,
their bank accounts evaporate, their credit hits the skids, their spouses
and children are left to survive on their own as the breeder pursues their
own manifestation of what they perceive to prove their self-worth. Being
a dog breeder is a huge commitment. It means we should assign ourselves
the role of lifetime student. It means we will be humbled in countless ways
and in countless circumstances. It means our lessons will be of the hard
knock variety if we are to truly learn them. It means frustration, long
hours, late nights and early mornings. It means never getting to sleep-in
again. It means finding friendships - some of which will last for a lifetime
and some of which will founder, being built on social advantage. It means
being quoted and misquoted and having words put in your mouth. It means
being given ample opportunity to be as "small" as a human being
can be. But, hopefully, it can provide an opportunity to learn to be "big,"
to be generous, inquisitive, and adventurous. We should never ask ourselves
if we are envied or important or successful. Those questions are meaningless.
At the end of the day, we should ask ourselves, "Am I proud of the
person I've become? What we must always be are dog lovers. We must be their
advocates. We must ensure the life of every dog we breed and every dog we
own is fulfilled and an illustration of humanity at its nest hour. Our vanity
must not be stroked by having our pictures in a magazine or seeing our name
on some ranking system. Our self-worth must come from knowing we provide
our dogs a life of love, of pleasure, and of happiness.
II - BREED FOR IMPROVEMENT NOT WINNERS
It is easy to become lost in the purpose of breeding
quality dogs. For some, the attraction of the bright lights, the glamour
and the glitz cause them to stray from the path. Developing a bloodline
that is well considered and that is a positive influence for the breed takes
considerable discipline. Too often, the seemingly slow and carefully orchestrated
effort to improve a breed is crossed up with the immediate desire to breed
that one big winner and become famous.
Dogs do not excel for all the same reasons. Consequently, you can't simply breed one big winner to another and produce more big winners. Every feature and their nature of inheritance must be studied and understood before you can "manage" the inheritance variables. Once you gain this skill, you are on the road to producing a great line of winners.
III - TO THINE OWN SELF BE TRUE
The breeding of fine purebred dogs should be considered
the pursuit of perfection - it is not the maintenance of it. All dogs have
faults, all dogs are less than ideal in some ways and areas. If not, the
"ideal" has not been well enough conceived. It is very easy to
fall into the trap of being defensive about one's own dogs. This usually
happens because what we assume to be correct is challenged by another as
being less so.
Quite honestly, you should be more critical of your dogs than anyone else could possibly be. That is not to say you should attribute faults to your dogs they do not possess, but your evaluation must be as detailed as possible and you must strive to see clearly their true faults and virtues. From this comes the map to success.
IV - DEAL WITH OTHERS AS YOU WOULD HAVE THEM DEAL WITH YOU
Sounds a bit like the golden rule that we learn in childhood.
Yet it is amazing how many people forget this very important axiom. In dealing
with others, regardless of the matter, think always of the other person's
position. I have heard repeatedly, people state how they were burned
in a co-ownership agreement. All too often the agreement is geared
toward benefiting one party (often the seller) over another. Written agreements
somehow are tainted as being only needed in a contentious situation. This
is the first misconception. Not having a written agreement should be the very
rare exception, not the reverse. Too often, should a worthwhile puppy be produced
from one of these undefined arrangements, the fight is on for possession.
Before contemplating selling a dog on a co-ownership or leasing it or offering
stud service for a puppy back, you should think through what exactly you expect
and desire from such an arrangement. Too often, these business dealings occur
in the spur of the moment during a telephone conversation, and the deal is
struck before either party has really had an opportunity to think it through.
For some reason, rather than rethinking the situation, we tend to try to follow
through on such an ill conceived arrangement only to end up bitter enemies
in the end. If people would stop and think about the likely end result, they
would realize the best possible thing to protect the friendship is to have
a written understanding.
It is far better to let the other seemingly benefit than to destroy a relationship and acquire the reputation of being disreputable and self centered, if for no other reason than it makes you grow as a human being, which is probably a fair trade off in the long run. Everyone has a begriming ! So those who say " this person is not producing this dog or that dog , they are using my lines - so they have nice puppies because they are from " MY " lines." Those who say such things , forget that they too began with another breeders prefix on their first dogs. As well throughout time they incorporate a new line here or there, by way of stud service and out cross breeding - Does this make the offspring from those two changes - someone else's dogs, someone else's work , someone else's look , someone else's .... ? NO ! I find breeders only use this talk when it suits them and they need some how to promote themselves, and this happens far too often. Jealousy and gossip , destruction , and nasty behavior is ramped in exhibitors and breeders.
Another pitfall breeders often experience is the inability to celebrate others' Successes. While certainly we feel the route we are taking is the best way to approach that utopian plateau of breed perfection, there are actually many routes to that same goal. It takes nothing at all away from our own accomplishments to recognize the accomplished efforts of other breeders.
While it is probably good advice to hold our criticisms closer to our chest, recognizing another's achievement only brings good things. By being someone who can see the virtues in breeding lines other than your own, you gain a reputation of fair-ness and objectivity that is a very rare pearl in dogdom. You may find, over time, your point of view and your philosophies are taken with much greater weight when others do not perceive them to have originated in a mind consumed with self aggrandizement. Thus, by doing so you lose nothing and yet you gain so very much.
One of the worst situations a breeder can find her/ himself in is to partition themselves off from another kennel or bloodline. It is highly unlikely that all improvements toward the perfection of a breed are going to come from one single kennel or bloodline. Like flowers in the field, they will spring up in various places. The clever breeder is the one who knows how to pick from all the field those who will make the ultimate, sublime bouquet. And to do this, you must be able to use the strengths of other kennels and bloodlines. Breeders will tend to have certain biases; and quite honestly, there are certain strengths and weaknesses in most bloodlines. While you may feel you have achieved the highest ground in certain areas, there will doubtless be other areas in which your dogs and bloodlines are less strong than others. Not to recognize this fact is to ensure you will plateau quite early in your breeding career. And by that I mean you will stabilize and go no further. You must always keep a watchful eye for that very special bloom that will enhance your bouquet.
MAKE A WISE THOUGHT OUT DECISION
Don't buy the first puppy you see. Try to
visit many breeders and see their puppies. Ask lots of questions. Be prepared
to answer a lot of questions.An ethical breeder may want personal and vet
references, and may want to visit your home to be sure the pup will have
a “forever” home. Make an informed decision. Most people are in
a big hurry once they make up their minds to get a dog, SLOW DOWN…this
is a major life altering decision. Too many people make this snap decision
without thinking it through, then the dog and the owner are not a “good
fit” and it is often a dog that lands in a shelter or rescue situation.
Don’t be surprised if your breeder leads you to a certain dog in her
litter, she is trying to make a nice “forever” fit.
A yorkie should be at least 10 - 12 weeks old before going to a new home.
Some would say they can go younger, and some breeds probably can; but for
yorkies,10 -12 weeks puts you past the fragile period, past the fear/imprint
period, and seems to be about as young as they should go. Be wary of anyone
who will sell you a yorkie puppy under 8 weeks of age. They are just looking
to make some quick cash, and do not want to deal with the messy and bothersome
puppy at this age. Many pups turn into fear biters and have other anti-social
behaviors because it was taken from its mama and other siblings before the
proper socialization took place. Many breeders hang on to their pups up
to 6 months or more because they are looking for a new dog to show, taking
good time to choose the right pup that might become the next champion! Only
then will they release the rest to pet homes. VET
CHECK ON PURCHASE When you decide
on a new puppy, plan to pick the puppy up on a day when you can take it
right to your vet for a health exam before taking it home. Make the vets
appointment before you bring the puppy home. Proper advance planning will
make the pups adjustment to the new family a smooth transition, and smooth
for you too! Make arrangements with your vet to have your pet spayed or
neutered as soon as possible. I recommend before the 8th month. By spaying
or neutering you are increasing the length of your pet's life by eliminating
the risk of cancer. It is just an old wives tale that a female should have
one heat or even one litter of pups before being spayed. Today, most vets
agree that this is unnecessary. The younger a male dog is neutered the more
likely that he will not lift his leg and mark his territory. Housebreaking
accidents can be very messy, but can also be prevented by neutering at a
young age. Be sure that the vet you choose will use only discoloring as
an anesthetic agent. Any other type of anesthetic may cause death in toy
dogs. I feel so strongly about this
PET STORES AND PUPPY MILLS
Pet stores that sell dogs or cats fall
under the category of brokers. Pet stores are one of the main reasons puppy
mills are able to remain in business. By purchasing anything at a pet store
that sells dogs or cats, even if you just buy a toy, you are helping prolong
the time that puppy mills will remain in business. Please do not shop at
a pet store that sells dogs or cats.An ethical breeder will be willing to
stand behind their dogs 100%. They will guarantee their health and be willing
to replace the puppy if something goes wrong. An ethical breeder does want
to be called when there are problems, will be there for you, and will give
advice when necessary and guide you in the right direction. An ethical breeder
puts the life of the dog he/she has created above any monetary gains. Ethical
breeders are very concerned about the long term happiness of the pets they
sell. They will tell you that if your lifestyle changes, you have to move
. . . or for ANY reason you are no longer able to care for the dog, the
dog must be returned to the breeder. If you find a breeder like this, you
have most likely found a good one that truly cares about the dogs they are
breeding.
Puppies require constant attention and supervision when you first bring
them home. They must be fed three to four times daily. House training must
start immediately and is a time-consuming process. Puppies usually need
to go out every time they eat, drink, play or wake up from a nap, including
the sleepiest hours of these cold, winter nights.
DON'T BUY AS XMAS GIFT
During the holiday season people are so
busy that they don't have the time it takes to fulfill a new pup's 'round
the clock demands. It's unfair to bring a young dog into the chaos of holiday
celebrations and ignore their needs.
"Christmas is not a good time to introduce a new animal into a household.
It is best done later, when things are calmer and there's more time to help
the puppy adjust to their new surroundings," With all the activity
during this season, it's possible that the puppy may be frightened or distressed.
A new pet may also be upset by the stressful emotions of the humans around
them. A stressed pet, particularly an energetic and playful pup who is left
unsupervised, is more likely to get into trouble. The rich fare served during
the holidays can irresistibly tempt a constantly-hungry pup to steal and
devour these goodies from the table or garbage. Another temptation is to
hand feed a new puppy tidbits as a special meal. Having access to spicy,
fatty or excessively-sweet Christmas foods is a recipe for having a sick
puppy. Other Christmas dangers for new pets include their investigations
of shiny decorations with wonderfully strange odors. Most puppies explore
by mouthing objects that interest them. If a pup chews on decorative lights,
extension cords, glass ornaments, tinsel or leaves from seasonal plants,
they could become injured, seriously ill or even die. A dead puppy is not
a good Christmas present.
"A puppy is not something that looks cute and is taken on a whim, then
after a short time is returned to the shelter. These are living creatures
that deserve a huge commitment. To do that someone must be ready to take
on this big responsibility." "After the excitement is over, many
kids get tired of taking care of a puppy and the parents won't do it because
they're too busy. So, about half of our puppies that are adopted during
the holiday season end up being brought back to the shelter. Pets aren't
like toys. When you get bored with them you can't throw them away and get
a different 'toy.' If you do that with a dog, it hurts them."
There are more reasons for never giving an animal as a present. Selecting
a pet is a personal choice, not something one individual can do for another.
What if the receiver doesn't want the puppy? Do the kids and the new dog
get along? This should be determined in advance of permanently acquiring
a pet.
"We advocate that if a person wants a puppy, they should choose the
pet themselves so that it is compatible with their lifestyle. If the decision
to get or give a puppy as a present has definitely been made - hopefully
with much forethought - breeders and humane officers make the following
recommendations. Give a gift certificate, a stuffed animal or pet-care items
at Christmas. Wait to bring the new pup home until after the holidays are
finished and people's homes and schedules are less hectic. The right puppy
will be worth the wait.
Every year millions of unwanted dogs — both mixed-breed
and purebred — are put to death. The reason: supply and demand. More
puppies are born than there are lifetime homes available. Some unwanted
litters are produced by accident (many dog owners don't realize their dogs
can start having puppies by 5 or 6 months of age How your dog benefits
The only way to be sure your dog doesn't produce puppies is to get your
female dog spayed or your male dog castrated. Spaying involves the removal
of both the uterus and the ovaries. Castration refers to the removal of
a male dog's testicles. The term neutering is a general term to describe
either spaying or castration (but you may hear the terms neutering and castrating
used to mean the same thing). In addition to preventing unwanted puppies,
neutering your dog has many benefits:Female dogs who are spayed prior to
their first heat cycle (which usually occurs between 6 and 9 months of age)
have a significantly reduced chance of developing mammary (breast) cancer
compared to dogs who have had even one heat cycle.
Spayed females can't develop pyometra, an infection of the uterus that can
be quite severe and can even result in death.
Spayed females tend to have more even temperaments and do not go through
the hormone-induced mood swings that intact bitches sometimes have.
Neutered dogs often are better behaved than their intact counterparts. Not
only are they less likely to roam (visiting neighborhood females is a major
reason for roaming), they are also less likely to mark their territory by
urinating in the house (testosterone is one of the major drives for this
dominance-related activity). In addition, neutered male dogs are much less
likely to be aggressive toward other male dogs. These behavior benefits
are particularly true if you castrate your dog between the ages of 9 and
12 months, before he becomes sexually mature and develops bad habits.
Neutering prevents the development of prostate problems often seen in older
dogs.
A neutered dog won't develop testicular cancer, a common cancer of older,
intact male dogs.
Male dogs who lift their legs to urinate don't leave urine burns in the
middle of the lawn, because they usually urinate on trees, fence posts,
and other vertical objects around the perimeter of the yard. If you prefer
that your male dog lift his leg rather than squat to urinate, wait until
this habit is well established before getting him neutered.
Many people think their dogs will get fat if they are spayed or castrated,
but this isn't the case. Neutered dogs frequently don't need as much food
as their intact compatriots, but there is a simple solution: Don't feed
them as much.
AKC/CKC/UKC REGISTRATION (OR ANY OTHER REGISTRY) IS NOT AN INDICATION OF QUALITY! Most dogs, even purebreds, should not be bred. Many dogs, though wonderful pets, have defects of structure, personality or health that should not be perpetuated. Breeding animals should be proven free of these defects before starting on a reproductive career. If you do not know what these defects are that we are talking about, you should not be breeding. Breeding should only be done with the goal of improvement - an honest attempt to create puppies better than their parents. Ignorance is no excuse - once you have created a life, you can't take it back, even if blind, crippled or a canine psychopath!
Dog breeding is not a money-making proposition if done correctly. Health care and shots, diagnosis of problems and proof of quality, extra food, facilities, stud fees, advertising, etc, are all costly and must be paid before the pups can be sold. An unexpected caesarean or emergency intensive care for a sick pup will make a break-even litter become a big liability. And this is if you can sell the pups.
First time breeders have no reputation and no referrals to help them find buyers. Previous promises of "I want a dog just like yours" evaporate. Consider the time and expense of caring for pups that may not sell until four months, eight months or older! What would you do if your pups did not sell? Send them to the pound? Dump them in the country? Sell them cheap to a dog broker who may resell them to labs or other unsavory buyers? Veteran breeders with good reputations often don't consider a breeding unless they have cash deposits in advance for an average-sized litter.
If you're doing it for the children's education, remember the whelping maybe at three a.m. or at the vet's on the surgery table. Even if the kiddies are present, they may get a chance to see the birth of a monster or a mummy, or watch the bitch scream and bite you as you attempt to deliver a pup that is half out and too large. Some bitches are not natural mothers and either ignore or savage their whelps. Bitches can have severe delivery problems or even die in whelp; pups can be born dead or with gross deformities that require euthanasia. Of course, there can be joy, but if you can't deal with the possibility of tragedy, don't start.
Veteran breeders of quality dogs state they spend well over 130 hours of labor in raising an average litter. That is over two hours per day, every day! The bitch cannot be left alone while whelping and only for a short period of time the first few days. Be prepared for days off work and sleepless nights. Even after delivery, Mom needs care and feeding, puppies need daily checking, weighing, socialization and later grooming and training and the whelping box needs lots and lots of cleaning. More hours are spent doing paperwork, pedigrees and interviewing buyers. If you have any abnormal conditions such as sick puppies or a bitch who can't and won't care for her babies, count on double the time. If you can't provide the time, you will either have dead pups or poor ones that are bad tempered, antisocial, dirty and/or sickly - hardly a buyer's delight.
It's midnight - do you know where your puppies are? There are THREE-AND-A HALF MILLION unwanted dogs put to death in this country each year, with millions more dying homeless and unwanted through starvation, disease, automobiles, abuse, etc. Nearly a quarter of the victims of this unspeakable tragedy are pure-bred dogs with papers. The breeder who creates life is responsible for that life. Will you carefully screen potential buyers? Or will you just take the money and not worry if the puppy is chained in a junkyard all of its life, or runs in the street to be killed? Will you turn down a sale to irresponsible owners? Or will you say "yes" and not think about the puppy you held and loved now having a litter of mongrels every time she comes in heat, filling the pounds with more statistics - your grand-pups? Would you be prepared to take back a grown puppy if the owners can no longer care for it? Or can you live with the thought that the baby you helped bring into the world will be destroyed at the pound?
Because of these facts, we believe that dog breeding is best left to the professional breeder.
BUYING FROM A PET STORE
The yorkie coat does not shed, and does not have an undercoat, making yorkies desirable for some people with allergies, and those who do not want a breed that sheds. The correct texture of the coat is described as long, straight and silky. It will continue to grow unless trimmed. In fact, the yorkie coat is very similar to human hair. Special care must be taken to ensure that the hair around the anus of these dogs is kept clean. Because of their long hair, it is common for these dogs to become matted in this area, and this can lead to compacted feces. Apart from making the dog very sore and uncomfortable, this may, if left unattended, cause more serious problems. It can’t be ignored. This is a job for the professional groomer.Yorkie puppies may have "tipped" or "tilted" ears until they are around 6 months old. I am frequently asked about this when owners purchase a 12 week old puppy with nice erect ears, only to find that the ears drop again around 4-6 months of age. This is because at this time the yorkie is teething, cutting it's adult teeth, which can cause the ears to go up and down daily, and owner's should not be unduly concerned during this natural stage. However, it is important to keep the hair on the top third of the ear flap trimmed very short. This will stop the ears from being weighed down by excessive hair until they are firmly "set". Also the hair should be plucked from inside the ears, and ears checked regularly for excessive wax and for mites. This is also routinely done by a professional groomer.Yorkies should also have special attention paid to their eyes, and teeth. The long hair should be prevented from falling into their eyes, thus causing irritation and infection, either by tying it back or trimming it. As with most toy breeds, yorkies may have a tendency to tartar build-up on the teeth, but if regular attention is given to the teeth this should not be a serious problem. As the owner, you should brush the teeth on a regular basis. Many groomers also offer this as an additional service .Yorkies do not have an undercoat, and even with a long coat, they feel the cold very easily, and like most toy breeds prefer the comfort of coziness and warmth. They enjoy being pampered. Yorkies are definitely not a breed to keep outside in a kennel. When going out in cold or wet weather they will appreciate a warm dog coat to wear. Regular grooming may be an added expense for the yorkie owner, so you should consider this when thinking about purchasing a yorkie
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HOUSETRAINING
As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a puppy's nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to house train. Using ample amounts of supervision and positive reinforcement is the easy way.
STARTING OFF ON THE RIGHT TRACK
The first course of action in house training is to
promote the desired behavior. You need to: · Designate an appropriate
elimination area · Frequently guide your yorkie there to do its potty
business · Heartily praise the dog when it eliminates
By occasionally giving a food reward immediately
after your yorkie finishes, you can encourage it to eliminate in the desired
area. The odor left from previous visits to that area would quickly mark
it as the place for the yorkie to do his business. If the puppy makes a
mistake and eliminates on the floor blot it up with a paper towel, and then
place the wet paper towel on the potty pad. TIMING
IS IMPORTANT! Puppies should be encouraged to use the potty pad. ·
After waking in the morning · After naps · After meals ·
After playing or training · After being left alone · Immediately
before being put to bed
FEEDING SCHEDULES
Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control
of your puppy's feeding schedule, you will have some control over when it
needs to eliminate.· Schedule your puppy's dinner times so that you
will be available to take it to the potty pad or outside after eating. ·
Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining it or the puppy
may have to eliminate when you are not around to take it to the potty pad.
Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent schedule. ·
The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before it
is confined for the night. By controlling the feeding schedules, exercise
sessions, confinement periods, and elimination area, your puppy will quickly
develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.
Training a puppy to be comfortable in a crate is a
popular way to provide safe confinement during house training. The majority
of puppies will rapidly accept crate confinement when you make the introduction
fun. Since it is important to associate favorable things with the area where
your puppy is confined, it is a good idea to play with it there, or simply
spend some time reading or watching television nearby as the puppy relaxes
with a favorite chew toy. If the puppy is only in the area when you leave,
it becomes a social isolation area that it eventually may resist entering.
A good time to start crate training is at dinnertime. Feed your puppy its
dinner in the crate. My yorkies love their crates I leave them with the
door open it is a favorite place to take a nap or cuddle with a toy. You
should not use the crate for periods that exceed the length of time the
puppy can actually control the urge to urinate or defecate. If you are gone
for long periods each day, you will need to provide a larger confinement
area. You may want to consider using an exercise pen or small room. Baby
gates are wonderful to keep a puppy in a room that has a hard surface floor
no carpet if the puppy makes a mistake you want the floor easy to clean
up.
Left on its own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Never give the puppy full run of your home until you are sure it is housetrained. Close supervision is a very important part of training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until it has gone at least four consecutive weeks without eliminating in the wrong place. For older dogs, this period should be even longer. Until then:· Your puppy should constantly be within eyesight · Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision · Keep them in the crate, exercise pen or a room with vinyl when unsupervised. When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to closely monitor your pet's activities, confine it to a small, safe area in the home. Some of the above words and advice have been adapted from other sites and breeders.